Preliminary Research, Meeting The Litter & Selecting The Puppy
Frankie was not the best dog I looked at. his litter was in fact the second litter we visited. Prior to that we did plenty of research on Gumtree dogs online and other dog breeding sites. We knew it was vital to choose a good breeder, a quality breeder. the first breeder we looked at was a first time breeder. This breeder had bred his puppy with a friends dog. We could see the mother but we did not meet the father. This breeder had not had the dogs that checked yet and the dogs were 4 weeks of age. don’t be sucked into the first puppy you see, you fall in love with. it can be hard, because all puppies are cute. We looked at the solicitor when it was 4 weeks old at this rate the puppies were minimally walking.
They were pretty sedentary in fact. at 4 weeks you cannot tell the true nature of puppies and the true temperaments. at this age the puppies are barely walking well I kept could walk they tend to sleep and this is not a good way to measure the temperament of individual puppies. You can only starts to the temperaments when the puppy reaches and older age about 8 weeks. the second letter we looked at was Frankie’s litter. there were 5 puppies in the litter one girl and four boys.
You can tell the quality breeder when you come across them. Frankies litter was bred by a lovely couple down in Brisbane. we saw Frankie’s litter on Gumtree. [insert image of gumtree ad here]. As soon as we walked up the driveway when you that this was the breeder. We walked up a long driveway past horses and cattle. We knew the puppies had been socialized with these animals.after walking up the driveway we came to a brightly lit house comma out the front the breeder, a kind lady named Paula came out to greet us.
She took us around the back of the house tour fenced off fully enclosed yard where the puppies and the mother and the Father and the grandmother were playing. right away we knew this was a quality breeder there were a number of signs: one we could see both parents and meet both parents. 2 the puppies had plenty of garden and space to run around with and there was also a goat in the same it within the enclosed yard. Three the puppies had been vet checked for the following hereditary diseases:
CEA, TNS, DMS etc..
CEA – Collie Eye Anomaly (or Choroidal Hypoplasia). A genetic, hereditary disorder affecting the vision of your dog which can ultimately lead to your dog’s loss of vision. Affects mainly herding dogs including; shelties, border collies, rough coated collies, smooth coated collies and Aussie Shepherds. http://www.pethealthnetwork.com/dog-health/dog-diseases-conditions-a-z/collie-eye-anomaly-cea
TNS – Trapped Neutrophil Syndrome. A hereditary autosomal recessive mutation carried by approximately 1 in 10 Border Collies. Condition prevents dog’s body from releasing infection-fighting white blood cells and keeps them trapped in dog’s bone marrow. Without sufficient quantities of these white blood cells, dogs cannot fight off infection which ultimately leads to the dog’s death. https://www.animalgenetics.us/Canine/Genetic_Disease/TNS.asp
DMS – Dermatomyositis. An autoimmune disease which infects the muscle and skin of a dog. It is most common in Shetland sheepdogs and other collie breeds. Can lead to difficulty eating and drinking. https://www.animalgenetics.us/Canine/Genetic_Disease/DMS.asp.
Proper nutrition for puppies and adult dogs. A quick guide.
Puppy development stages.
Most common mistakes of owners and young dogs. What happened with Frankie. Too cuddly. Not independent enough. Increase independence in your dog.
Vaccinations and not over vaccinating.
Step by step socialization and training plans.
Stop puppy chewing/mouthing when watching tv.
Treat root causes of behaviours not the syymptoms of effects/
Why we don’t say stay after sit or drop. Don’t want to have to say stay each time. Just put in position and walk off. Instead, stay is used for telling the dog to generally stay where he is without yuu putting him into a fixed obedience position.
Chapter 2 ~ The First Night
The first night with your new puppy.
The first night that you bring your puppy home is one of the most crucial nights in your puppy’s life; training begins now. Ground rules and expectations are put in place as soon as your puppy gets home. Many people say that they’ll start with the training after a little while, once the puppy settles in. What happens in reality however is that the puppy will develop bad habits, habits which will need to be broken later. The best idea is to prevent bad habits entirely before they begin. The trick? To not think of it as training your puppy rather than treating your puppy the way you wish it to act as an adult dog.
This is the night in which your puppy sees you for the first time, when your puppy begins its routine, when your puppy starts training. To raise a well rounded puppy it is crucial that you begin training early on comma that you begin training as soon as the puppy comes through the door. From the very beginning the puppy should know what’s right and what’s wrong. Now he won’t know this automatically so you’re going to have to teach him full stop the most common thing that new owners or any owners and general forget is that puppies require rewards just as much as they require corrections.
Many owners will correct the puppy for doing the wrong thing, but what they forget to do this praise the puppy when it’s done something right. The trick is when the puppy does something you want you’ve got to act like it’s the best thing in the world. This is what we did with Frankie. for your puppy, the first night will be accompanied with whining and crying. This is normal. Your puppy has just left its litter, your puppy has just left it’s mother and your puppy is now in an environment with new smells new people new dogs perhaps. And it will be terrified. the key: is to distract your puppy.
Distracted with food with water and with plenty of toys and fun. like any child, your puppy will only have a One Track Mind. If you keep his mind on toys and fun and games he won’t have time to stop and think about his mother or his little mates. This is what we did with Frankie and it worked tremendously well.
Must remember puppies have, up til now, slept with they mothers and littermates. They have been surrounded by other warm bodies and comforting squeaks and now are placed in a cold (because by themselves) crate alone. It is common for puppy to experience some initial grief and anxiety. This is known as separation discomfort and is a very normal part of acclimating to a new family and a new home. Puppies have this very natural instinct to whine, howl and cry when they have been separated from their families and this has been
Chapter 3 ~ The First Week
The first week with your new puppy.
The first week in your new puppy’s life is a crucial one.
Socialisation. Surface socialization. Noise desensitization. Human and animal and dog socialization. Signs (see career academy book – canine senses and communication) that your dog is scared, excited, confident etc. So you too can recognize the signs.
Teach its name.
Chapter 4 – the first month
Stop leash biting. Stop leash pulling. Stop jumping up.
Chapter 5 – The first 3 months
What you will learn in this chapter1. The get off command
- hifive etc.
Dog obedience – when socializing your dog to new things. Long calm strokes are calming not short pats or scratches behind the ear.
Frankie’s first day of obedience school, the 13th of July 2019. Overall coped with the surfaces well. But unsure at first, but was going over them easily at the end and sitting on them.
To teach to stand, right hand under collar. Left hand up, under the dog’s belly. Keep them still. Keep firm grip until stops wriggling, stops squirming. When he stands still and looks at you preferably, then release, free play.
Same over. Guide over.
Objects, surfaces, slippery. All different types of surfaces. When they get on the surfaces, they learn that freedom. If they go on, they get off sooner. You want to teach them that that’s just natural to go over different surfaces, when you tell them to.
Went through tunnel for the first time. Went through twice. Both times struggled with the dog handler. Dog handler held up one end, I went to the other, called him through and big party when he got through.
That was good, went through the tunnel alright. But, freaked out, absolutely freaked out with, when harshly handled by someone else. Freaked out, squirming, yelping, crying. To fix after class, handler took leash of dog and kept enticing him over. Let him come over at first, and then kept pulling him over. Pull. Pull. When he stopped, then grab him, firm grip. Big pats. Big rewards. Take him away from me. Advice to me was, “Don’t mother him too much.” So, give him more with time with other people. He was slightly undersocialized. He’s good with other dogs.
Got to learn that when he goes with other people, it’s okay. Not to squirm, not to yelp, not to cry.
So, to teach: get a handler, preferably male, give him the leash. Tell him to walk away with your dog. The dog may sit down. Keep pulling until you’re further enough away from the handler. Sit down. Sit down until you’re so low to the ground. Pull the dog towards you. He’ll resist. Keep pulling. Firm grip. Tell him. Keep enticing him to come. No food lures. When you get to him, hands firmly. Big firm strokes, good pets. Well done. Good happy voice. Good job. And hold him, but don’t lose your grip. Hold him until he stops squirming. You don’t want the last thing your dog to do is to squirm with the handler. That’s why we did this. When he stops squirming, teach him.
Keep petting, petting, petting, and then let him go back to his owner.
Teach to go through tunnel –
If your dog can sit, stay then good.
Make short so not as scary because dark and enclosed and long
Get dog to sit right by opening.
Tell him to stay.
Walk around to other side of the tunnel. Bend down so he can see you and call him. If he comes to you then throw a party so he relates going through tunnel = party.
Repeat with dog right in opening until he’s comfortable and confidently going through.
Move dog about a foot away from mouth of tunnel and repeat.
Move dog further and further away each time once he is confidently going through and knows what to do.
Not working? throw treat/toy into tunnel and then run to other end and call him through.
Building – teach him to go to the far end or the closer end, the left side or the right side.
How long? Several training sessions of fun getting used to tunnel and more for actual command.
How to paws up, sit, stay, tilt head, go to bed, take a seat, get on,, spin, turn, roll over, hi five, paw, sit pretty.
Prerequisite – none
Base Trick For – pivot, say your prayers,
Take treat in hand. Or toy. Whatever motivates your dog.
Lure dog up onto chair so that his front two paws only are on the book. Say the command “paws up”.
Repeat. Dog will begin to associate this command with putting is paws up on objects.
Once comfortbale, begin to faze out the treat/toy lure.
This time use empty hand to loure dog. Treat when he does it.
Everntually get ot pointing at object and he’ll put his front paws on it..
Not working? initially your dog may jump completely onto the chair or table as he follows the lure. If this happens, happily say “nah” or “try again” and tell your dog to “get off”. Try this again using the lure but this time don’t give the dog room to jump onto the chair or table. Instead, lure to edge of table.
How long? 1 10 min training session.
Base trick for: getting your dog to get down off objects or peole. More useful in real world than in trick training.
How to train:
When your dog puts his paws up or jumps up on something of his own accord then quickly give him the command to “get off”. When delivered sharply and in an authoritative and commanding tone, your dog will naturally get downEach time he puts his paws up, tell him to “get off”. He will soon learn particularly if you start this as a puppy. As soon as both paws touch the ground- click or deliver the “yes” command and treat. Continue practicing. Top reinforce him keeping his paws on the ground, only fuss and pat him if all four paws are on the ground. This will teach him that jumping up on people will not get him attention and that staying with all fours on the ground will.
Tracining Tip: . Not if your sitting on the couch. But if your behind the dog this will work.
How long? 2-3 training sessions. HOW MANY REPITIIONS.
Set up/prep – large/small space, touch stick, clicker, training
Base trick for: march, limp, cross paws
How to train:
The best method is to use food.
Place a tasty piece of food in your hand. Make a fist.
Wave your hand in front of your dog’s nose so as to get the dogs attention.
Place your fist on the floor.
This method works particularly well if the dog is highly food motivated.
This method will also work with a high value treat. Like chicken, steak or sausage because the dog really wants to get to it.
The dog will naturally scratch your hand trying to get the treat out.
As soon has he puts his paw on your fist, then immediately click and open hand to reveal treat. This teaches the dog that as soon as his paw is placed on your closed fist he gets the treat. Do this a couple of times to get your dog confidently putting his paw on your fist. Make sure putting the same paw on your hand each time. Otherwise he won’t learn. If he is seemingly just changing paws then only reward when he scratches with his right paw. Then introduce the command. I use the command “hi-five” for Frankie’s right paw and “paw” for his left paw.
Teaching Trouble – dog will keep sniffing your hand but will not scratch at it. Try moving your hand in a fast motion, your dog may try and “tag” you.
Go to bed:
Other – get to sit before fed. Doesn’t get food until his butt hits the floor. Teach to sit down when strangers come into the house.
General set up
Can dogs learn left, right for a number of different tricks. Quickly learn names of people.
Chapter 4 ~ The First Month
The first month with your new puppy.
The first month in your new puppy’s life is a crucial one.
General leash manners. Crossing road. Better to start off with habits.
Border Collies: People research the breed and read about the insane exercise requirements of this high intensity breed. They begin to keep thinking of how they are going to have to spend the entire day exercising their breed and not being able to do anything else otherwise at risk of dog chewing or barking. At the end of the day, all dogs should be exercised and the border collie more so than other breeds however it is important to remember who is boss.
Ultiamtely, the dog should settle down when told and quieten down when instructed. To teach dog to settle. Say settle. If he doesn’t, silently pick him up, put him in crate in other room without making a sound. Leave him there for 10 mins. Now this is not punishment, merely telling the dog that not settling down results in isolation. bring out after 10 mins and repeat settle command. Frankie settled straight away. same as at desk and he went straight to sleep.
Keep off furniture. Use the command get off.
To teach dog to stop whining in crate. Walk into the room. Clap hands really loudly together, make a huge racket and say quiet with a rough tone of voice. Keep a stern facial expression. Frankie did not make a peep after that. Some people say to just ignore puppy. This did not work for us. Frankie would keep carrying on.
Teach how to get on with existing dogs.
Desensitisation to people, bikes, cars and rollerblades, lawn mowers.
First time past a lawn mower, loud and noisy. Freaked out. Get a firm grip on leash and stride past with confidence instructing your dog to come. (use the word come when need him to follow or come from somewhere else in the house). The confidence in your voice will tell the dog that there is nothing to be afraid of.